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City of Zagreb
He who described Zagreb as the ideal town of the 19th century had
no intention of passing over Zagreb’s intriguing past, nor
all the good things that happened to Zagreb, or that which began
to adorn it following that century. He simply wished to remind us
of the qualities that made the city stand apart in its impressive
individuality, and of the qualities to which it owes the attraction
of a good part of its present-day vistas.
For needless to say, Zagreb did exist before
the 19th century. Its beginnings can be discerned in two small medieval
towns: secular Gradec, populated by tradesmen and artisans, and
the bishop’s town of Kaptol. Today, people walking through
the city’s streets know them as the urban entities of the
Upper Town – where familiar sites are the Lotršcak Tower,
St. Mark’s church, and the Croatian Sabor (parliament) building,
and Kaptol, dominated by Zagreb’s neo-Gothic Cathedral which,
in the 13th century, was the easternmost edifi ce of its kind in
Europe.
In the 19th century, in the area beneath them,
new town - or Downtown - was built according to a quite specifi
c plan. In other words, at a time when people were attempting to
unravel the tangled knot that traffic, industry and the inevitably
linked pollution of residential areas thereby created. Contrary
to such experiences, Zagreb managed to achieve a well balanced ratio
of architectural entities and green areas. Residential blocks and
the street grid are framed by a string of parks, making up two so-called
“green horse-shoes”, quite unique in the world. Additionally,
integrated into that green, horse-shoe landscape are the Croatian
National Theatre, the Art Pavilion, the Croatian Academy of Arts
and Sciences, the University Library and other buildings of social
and architectural signifi cance. And to crown them all from the
hilly elevation above the city is Mirogoj, the city cemetery, with
its Renaissance-style arcade surmounted by bronze cupolas, and a
wealth of greenery to match any English park.
In the 20th century the city expanded, crossing
the River Sava and a new Zagreb grew there. But despite that, or
perhaps specifi cally because of it, the city continued to breath
with the full lungs of an urban centre. And it continues to do so
today. Numerous theatres, museums, galleries, concert halls, exhibition
premises, sports and recreational grounds, restaurants, wine boutiques
and beer halls – they all offer almost countless reasons to
visit them. Possibly with the intention of learning more about the
rich historical, artistic, ethnographic or gastronomic heritage
of Croatia. Possibly simply to see and to be seen. Or possibly merely
aiming to have a good time... When you are in the right place, at
the right time, any reason can be the right one.
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